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Why Is My Pet Acting Like This??

1/31/2016

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It's not easy being cute...
PictureDoes this soft fluffy towel clash with my woe is me look?
I've owned a dog grooming shop for 17 years, and owned a boarding kennel for 6 of those years as well.  I see on average 7-12 dogs a day coming through my doors, 5 days a week. There is one thing almost all of these dogs have in common, day in and day out; they have their owners wrapped around their adorable little paws.

One comment I hear most often in my career is "Fluffy is shaking! He's so scared!". This is usually voiced in a high pitched wail while said shaking dog is being hugged, cooed at and desperately reassured while me, the groomer, is trying to pry Fluffy out of the iron grasp of his distraught owners.



​There is a reason why Fluffy is acting this way, and I'm hoping that a little insight will help you as an owner understand your dog's behavior at the groomer, vet office, or boarding kennel and how to make these visits less stressful. 

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I Thought You Said Pet, Not Vet

​Face It, Grooming, Health Care and Being Left Behind are Not Fun Things


Taking your pet to the groomer, veterinarian or the boarding facility are not fun times. I know we all wish we never had to make our dogs uncomfortable, but the fact of the matter is, all dogs need to visit these facilities in their lifetime. In the case of the groomer, sometimes as often as once a month.  They are dropped off, bathed, brushed, nails trimmed, anal glands expressed, blow dried, ears cleaned, poked, prodded, held down, given shots, and surrounded by strange people, dogs, smells, and noises.

These Things Are Not Fun. Some dogs are more go with the flow, just like some children. Every personality is a little different, and how you handle these visits makes a HUGE impact on how comfortable your pet will be.  Would you drop your child off at the dentist and let them pry your unsure kid out of your arms while informing them in high pitched, anxious voices that it won't hurt TOO bad? Do you drop your child off at daycare and make the daycare workers force your child out of your arms and push you out the door while you anxiously call out words of apology for abandoning them?

No, you don't. Well I hope not. If you are, you are a terrible parent and you need to stop that.

Then don't be a terrible dog parent, because those scenarios I just described are exactly what most pet owners do when they drop their pets off with the professionals, and it is no less terrifying to your pet than it would be to your child.

Dentists, doctors and daycares are uncomfortable but necessary experiences of being a child (and a parent). Groomers, vets and boarding facilities are the doggie equivalent of these. It is up to you as the owner to make these experiences positive ones, even if they really are not very fun.
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Do you feel sorry for me yet? How about now?

​It's All About The Attitude, and Your Pet Is Smarter Than You Think

My own dogs refuse to purposely set foot in my grooming shop, which is attached to my home.  They know the door in the laundry room leads to Bath Land, and they are SO not going there.  I just pick them up, march into the shop and unceremoniously dump them into the tub.  No reassuring, desperate, pleading voice. No over-exaggerated pats, treats and bribes.  I just dump them in the tub, hum ridiculous songs to myself, and do my job.  They glare at me. They sulk. They shake as much as absolute possible to be sure I get as soaked as they are. And all is fine, because in the end, it's just a bath, and it's only as bad as I make it out to be.

Your dog doesn't care what you say to them. You can talk about the weather, your cankles, or the new outfit you are dying to buy. It is your voice and body language that matters. They are shaking, whimpering, cowering and carrying on because you are reacting to it. You are reassuring them there is something to be scared of, when there really isn't.

The big secret that I try to share as much as possible?

As soon as you leave, they sigh, make a few sulky rounds in the holding kennel, and curl up and go to sleep until something interesting happens, because the biggest source of anxiety (that would be you!) has left. Now they can relax and process this strange environment on their own terms, and you are no longer present to manipulate with those big doe eyes and quivering limbs.

Some dogs really do spend their entire visits anxious, pacing, barking and crying, and these dogs almost always have particularly stressed out and anxious owners. If you are not comfortable with your chosen pet professional, that is something you need to work on by talking to them, getting to know them and asking your questions BEFORE you bring your dog in and pass that anxiety and distrust on to them.  

I know it's not easy.  When I changed to just grooming from owning a boarding kennel as well, I had to find a boarding facility for my own dogs when I left town. I was lucky to have a friend open a kennel, and I 100% trust his care, the facility is clean and secure, and I have no doubts leaving my dogs with him.  I used to roll my eyes and inwardly curse at owners who passed on their stress to their dogs before leaving on vacation with long goodbyes. I will admit, I got a taste of my own medicine when I dropped off my 3 boys at the kennel for a week over christmas. It was very hard to not hug them, kiss them, reassure them I would be back, and apologize for leaving them on a holiday.  What I DID do was hand over the leash and walk back into the waiting room without a word or a backward glance while they gleefully ran out to the play yard.  I cried the whole way home.  So yes, it's hard to leave your pets. They are family. You want everything they experience to be fun and include you, but that isn't how it works. So please, do your pet and your pet professional a favor and happily, joyfully and quickly hand over the leash and hop out the door.  

It's ok to cry in the car.
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Does this leash make me look sad? I hope it makes me look sad.

​Speaking Of Leashes...

Remember that old song lyric "you can't have one without the other"?  

If you own a dog, you need to own a properly fitted collar and flat leather or nylon leash.

One thing that is super frustrating for pet professionals is trying to safely handle your dog without a properly fitted collar and leash.  Retractable leashes are the bane of our careers. I don't know a single pet professional that wouldn't gladly ban them from existence.  Retractable leashes offer no control, are bulky and hard to handle, usually weigh more than your actual dog, and are often broken, knotted up, chewed on and no longer lock or retract at all. 

Please do not drop your dog off with your pet professional on a retractable lead. If you must own one, purchase a flat nylon or leather lead to use when taking your pup into facilities where other pets are present and your dog will be confined in a cage or on a table for portions of their stay.

I require leashes on ALL dogs of all sizes in my shop. People often complain about this rule because their dog is small and can be carried, hates leashes, or some other excuse.  I care more about your dogs safety than anything else. There is a reason for my madness besides the obvious one of keeping your pet from running out the door and into oncoming traffic. Dogs often have to wait in a kennel until it is their turn to be groomed. If I can open the cage, grab their familiar and well fitted leash and happily lead them out, my risk of being bitten is much lower than if I have to reach in and grab an unsure dog.  The risk of them bolting out the cage and onto the hard floor face first is also much lower if I have something to grab to control them the moment the door opens.

The same applies for when you pick your pet up.  The moment they see you, they are super excited, wiggling, dancing and carrying on. They want to go home!  However, I still have to open the cage door and hand over that wiggling, dancing pup, and I cannot safely do that when I have nothing to grab onto when I open the door other than an oversized chunk of plastic full of dental floss attached to a too-big, broken buckled collar.

Do you drop your kid off at school in nothing but an oversized t-shirt full of holes? Properly fitted clothes are not optional child attire, nor should properly fitted collars and leashes be optional for your dog. People are coming and going all the time. Doors are opening and closing. Other pets are coming and going.  Your pet NEEDS to be safely contained for his safety, the security of other pets, and my sanity.

Carriers are also not a good choice and in fact, I require pets be removed from carriers before their owners can leave. Pets become very protective of their carriers, and strange hands reaching into a crowded space to pry out a nervous dog is a recipe for a bad bite. When I owned the boarding facility, people often brought their dogs carriers or crates to put inside the larger kennels because it was their safe spot. This is great at home, but in the already stressful environment of a boarding kennel, this just gives your dog something familiar they feel they need to protect, and causes more stress for the people that are caring for your pet.  Blankets, toys and other familiar items are great...but leave the carriers in the car.

There is the issue of bribery to touch on quickly here too. When I owned the kennel, people would bring bags of horrible smelling special treats to make themselves feel better for leaving their pets behind.  Treats their pets usually don't get. Combine smelly, fast-food treats with a nervous pet and you have a mess of body fluids and an upset, guilty dog.  Never feed your pet a meal or treats before taking them for a ride to spend hours away from home, and always potty them before drop off.  I feel so sorry for dogs who are well trained and know it is "naughty" to potty inside, but they are too full of nerves and food to control themselves. Not to mention the added fees you end up paying for clean up and rebathing. 

People often focus on the wrong things once their pets are home as well. I remember when I was younger, my grandparents would always get their dog groomed and he had to be shaved short as they didn't get him groomed very often and he was matted by the time he was taken in. He would come home with pink skin and hide under the bed for days.  I used to think he was ashamed of his haircut. Now as someone who deals with this every day, I realized he wasn't used to feeling the air on his skin after many months of matted fur, and my grandma would spend days feeling sorry for him and reassure him with full course meals and apprehensive, coddling cuddle sessions. He didn't understand what this sudden surge of fretful attention was for, all he knew was he was milking that for all it was worth.

Bribery doesn't work. Reassurance is confusing. Your pet lives in the now and doesn't understand this concept. Save it for your kids at the dentist.

Don't tell the dentists I said that.
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I hope you intend to fill this contraption with treats. Funnels are for food.

​So...How Do I Make My Dogs Groomer/Vet/Kennel Visits FUN?

It really is up to you as a loving pet owner to set the positive tone for your pets' visit to the groomer, vet or boarding kennel. He may never enjoy them or think of them as fun filled days, but how you handle it can go a long way to at least making it a constructive experience. Let's recap...

*Drop off your pet with a positive attitude and joyous body language. You don't have to sing and dance, but a smile and a "see you later!" wave is all your pet needs to be reassured.  If they are shaking, crying or cowering, allow the pet professional to confidently take over while you back off and let them do their job. Baths suck, but I promise you, they are not that bad. Hopefully you have experience with bathing yourself, preferably at least a few times a week, and can confidently tell your pets they really will be fine.

*Have conversations about any concerns, worries or questions before your appointment. If you are not confident with the care your pet will receive, they will not feel comfortable with your choice any more than you are. My own parents dog absolutely loves me when I visit their home. She acts like I'm the grim reaper when they bring her in for a groom. Luckily, I have my parents well versed on drop off behavior and Sophie pretty much sleeps through the rest of the visit after a 10 minutes singing session lamenting her woes at being abandoned for 4 entire hours.

*Never arrive early to check on your pet or pick them up before arranged times. We cannot safely finish caring for an over-excited pet in a timely and safe manner.

*Always have your pet on a secure, properly fitted leash or harness and non-retractable collar. ALWAYS.

* Never feed your pet a meal or treats before drop off, and be sure to potty them before walking into the establishment. A pet that makes a mess inside will feel guilty and upset, making the rest of the visit harder on them. By all means, save that special treat for when all the not-so-fun stuff is over. It's 5-oclock somewhere! Bring on the biscuits!

* Sometimes your dog will continue this behavior after they get home. New haircuts should be something to brag about. Tell your dog how wonderful they look with a nice cuddle session rather than voice frustration over the haircut being too short because you didn't get them booked in time or didn't take care of the coat between grooms. Don't focus on how uncomfortable that cone must be, or how silly the shaved area for the IV or surgery site looks. Your dog will pick up on these unnecessary unease and act accordingly.  Hair grows back, cones are not needed forever, but your love is unconditional.  Show that :)

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I'm going to go roll in the stinkiest, deadest thing I can find as soon as I get home. Hmph.

​By Seri Dukart - Groomer/ Boarding Kennel Owner

Special thanks to all the people who answered my call for woeful looking pet pictures for this article. It was hard to pick which ones to use and not use them all! Ha!

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How to Bathe Your Dog At Home

1/29/2016

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As a groomer, I have a lot of clients asking me if it's ok to bathe their dog at home between grooms. My answer is, of course! Sorta. If you read this article first and do it right, that is. Others do bathe their dog between grooms without a second thought, and end up making my job as a groomer much more difficult because they are not doing it properly.  There IS a proper way to bathe a dog, and forgoing any of the tips below can cause skin and coat issues with your pup that I may not be able to fix easily, and your dog and the haircut will suffer for it.  

Equipment Needed: 

Tub.
High Pressure Water Nozzle.
Hot/Cold Water Faucet.
Brush.
Comb.
Dog Shampoo.
Bottle to dilute shampoo in.
Towels.
Vodka. (This is for you. After the bath.)

Rub a Dub Tub...err Shower

The most important thing to have if you are going to bathe your dog at home, equipment wise, is a nozzle with good water pressure.  Some showers have take down shower heads, but they don't always have the best water pressure.  You can purchase attachments that hook up to your tub faucet, or hose attachments, however, be sure if you are using hose attachments that you are hooking up to a faucet that has both hot and cold water.  The water from an outdoor spigot is usually too cold. If it's not comfortable for you, it's not comfortable for your dog, and even on a very hot day being directly sprayed by a cold hose is not all that welcome. Always use cooler water, not warm to hot.  Dogs run at a higher body temperature than us humans, and cooler water will feel more comfortable.

One of the most common mistakes people make when bathing their dogs at home is filling a tub up with water and dropping the dog in.  All this does is mix dirt, dander, soap and hair around, leaving most of it on your dog when you remove them from the tub.  The old "tub o' water and a cup" method went out with the idea of communal bathing years ago for a reason: it doesn't get you clean, and it's pretty disgusting. 

Water should be running off your dog and down the drain as you bathe and rinse. Never bathe a dog in standing water, no matter what Grandma says. Or google.

Brush First! Ask Questions Later!

Have you ever gotten your hair wet without brushing it first?  When you do brush it out, it hurts. A lot. If you don't have enough hair to experience this, go grab a small child and try it. They will very vocally educate you and your shins. It only takes ONE time of getting the hair wet without brushing it out first and immediately after, before tangles form.  Your dogs hair is the same way.  Hair breeds such as Lhasas, Shih Tzus, Maltese, etc must be brushed and combed out completely before they are bathed as well as after.  Getting the hair wet without removing the tangles and mats is pretty much the same as pouring a bottle of glue on your dog and rubbing it in.  Water and tangles equal instant mats, and mats are extremely uncomfortable to brush and comb out. 

Am I repeating myself? It's because I can't stress this enough.  As a groomer I hear "but I bathe her at home all the time!" every day when I explain to my clients their dogs are too matted to be kept in a longer groom. It's almost always BECAUSE of all the (improperly done) bathing at home that their dogs are matted. 

Run a wire bristle brush through your dogs entire coat (armpits, belly, back, legs, ears, face...ALL OF IT!) and then follow through with a fine tooth comb. If you can't get the comb through from surface to skin without resistance, your dogs coat is matted and needs attention BEFORE you bathe the dog.  Remember...water and tangles is the equivalent of glue.  Dumping glue on your dog is generally frowned upon.  So is bathing a dog that hasn't been properly brushed out. At least from a groomers standpoint, as we are the ones that have to fix that mess!

If you are worried about getting water in your dogs ears, gently stuff a few cotton balls in the ear to prevent water from getting in the ear canal. Be sure to take them out when done!  Ears can be cleaned using unscented baby wipes, just gently wipe out the outer areas of the ear. Never use Q-tips; if your dogs ears are excessively dirty, they need to see a vet for a cleaning. 

If you brush your dogs teeth, bath time is a good time to do this as well. May as well get all the un-fun stuff done in one shot so they can hate you for an hour or so and get over it.

The Dilution Factor

There are hundreds of choices for dog shampoo on the market, and just like human shampoo, some are better than others. Chain store brands are usually low end and you won't get the same results as if you use a higher end, salon purchased shampoo.  Never use shampoo intended for humans.  Your dog may be your baby and that is perfectly ok, but I highly doubt you would pick up a $2 bottle of dog flea and tick shampoo for your infant. The same goes for your fur baby.  Dogs hair and skin are different than humans, and require a different sort of shampoo. 

ALL shampoo needs to be diluted before using on your pet.  Salon brands will usually have the dilution ratio on the bottle. Sometimes this dilution ratio can be as big as 32 parts water to 1 part shampoo. If no dilution ratio is listed, try 4 parts water to 1 part shampoo. Diluted shampoo cuts through the coat easier, and is easier to rinse out. Using a half gallon milk jug to mix up the shampoo you need for the bath is a great, easy way to mix. Add the water first, then the shampoo and shake.  Shampoo does have a shelf life, so you don't want to store mixed shampoo for long or it will start to break down and separate. The resulting mixture will be a very watery solution that suds up well when applied to your wet pet, if the shampoo is of good quality. If you insist on using a cheaper shampoo, expect less impressive results, and less impressive lather.  

If your dog has been skunked, there are specialty shampoos designed to help with the smell.  Forget the tomato juice, unless you have a beer to go with it for yourself afterwards. There is a recipe for a homemade skunk solution at the bottom of this article using common household ingredients that works well.  

Flea and Tick shampoos shouldn't be used as a preventative as they can be harsh.  If your dog has fleas or ticks, make an appointment with your vet to take care of these pests properly and promptly.  Shampoos designed for fleas and ticks will not take care of the problem alone. 

Rinse, Rinse, Rinse! (and repeat, if necessary)

Rinsing is the most time consuming part of bathing a dog. Along with trying to convince your dog to stay in the tub.  There are suction cup tethers you can purchase that will help. Another nice trick is to feed your dog in the tub so they are used to being in it for a GOOD reason, or smearing peanut butter on the tub wall to keep them occupied. You can always try this with your toddler too, come to think of it.

You always want to start out by getting the entire dog wet first, then apply the diluted shampoo mixture. If you have a really dirty dog, do a quick shampoo and rinse first and then repeat with a more thorough shampoo to get all the dirt off first. Shampoo the face and ears last, and rinse these first, so your dog doesn't get soap in its eyes. Always rinse from the top down. If you rinse the legs and chest first and then the top areas, you will be pushing dirty water and dander down onto the areas you just got clean.  So start at the top and work your way down.  Areas between the eyes and privates may need a little more attention to get clean and it's ok to use a cloth to help wipe the "gunk" off.  Using rubber curry brushes (usually called Zoom Grooms) is a great way to lather up short coated breeds like Labs as it will help loosen the dead hair.  Longer coated hair breeds need to be lathered by hand to prevent their coat from getting snarled up after you just spent all that time combing it out before the bath (you DID, right? RIGHT??). Use your fingers to lather the shampoo into the coat down to the skin level. PRO TIP! Use a flea comb to loosen and comb any "eye boogers" out safely.

Rinse until no more soap or lather is seen and the water runs clean...then rinse some more. Use your hands to work the water into the coat to help rinse below the surface. Soap and dander that is left behind turns into itchy skin issues and a dull, flat coat. A clean coat is a shiny coat.  If your water pressure is less than desirable, you will have to rinse twice as long to be sure the coat is clean.

Shake, Shake, Shake Senora...

Before taking a towel to your dog, squeeze all the excess water out of their coat, paying special attention to the ears and feet and tail, then encourage them to shake it off!  Yes, this is going to get water everywhere, but its the dogs natural instinct to shake all that water out of their coat, and doing so actually will make the drying process much easier for you.  So if they want to shake, let them. Shake with them.  Have some fun! I love to bathe dogs with the music on...it keeps me in a good mood, and the dogs pick up on that mood.

Towel drying can also cause matting in hair breeds, so never "scrub" towel a breed with a long coat.  Instead, use the towel to gently squeeze the water out of the dog, starting with their back and pat drying and squeezing the water down and out with the towel all over their body, legs, ears and tail.  Many dogs love to run and rub their bodies on the carpet or furniture after a bath and as cute as this is, please discourage it by keeping them contained until they are dry.  Rubbing a wet coat on carpet just takes us back to that whole "dump a bottle o' glue" theory again.

Human hair dryers are not meant to be used on dogs. The dryers we use in a professional grooming shop are not heated.  They are forced room temperature air. Heat will not only ruin your dogs coat, it can burn their skin and cause them to overheat quickly. If you do not have a hair dryer specifically designed for dogs, it is best to let them air dry. Human hair dryers with a "cool" setting are ok in a pinch, but the air force of these dryers is often not strong enough to be worth the time and agitation to your dog when they will likely air dry in the same amount of time. When the coat is dry, brush and comb out again if it's a hair breed, and you are done!  You can also brush and comb as you dry if you do have a suitable hair dryer to make a longer coat lay flat or a curly coat fluff up.

Smoochy, Smoochy

You are done! Your dog is clean! Give them a kiss and a treat. Not the vodka. That's for you. Tell them how wonderful they were, even if you are on the brink of murder because you are soaking wet from head to toe, your entire bathroom is covered in hair, you spilled the bottle of shampoo, and you have dog hair in your eyeballs.  Next time, pay the groomer to do it for you. That's what we are here for. Also, consider tipping us.  We appreciate it. It's how we purchase our vodka.

If your dog acts up during any part of this process, do not stop what you are doing.  Tantrums that convince you to stop the unwanted process of being brushed, bathed or dry is basically teaching your dog that you are a huge wuss and they can get what they want by having a fit. Some parents could use this advice too, come to think of it.  I know it's hard to see your dog unhappy, but it really IS best for them to learn to tolerate the process. It makes professional grooming much less stressful for them, and likely cheaper for you.  Many salons DO charge a fee for dogs that won't behave because it takes us more time and energy to groom a dog that should be able to stand fairly well for a procedure that it is going to have to tolerate for the rest of its life.  Puppies in particular can really carry on with fighting and crying...don't worry, you are not hurting anything but their feelings. They will get over it ;)  Your groomer on the other hand, may not.





Homemade Skunk Solution

Mix the following ingredients in a plastic bucket:

1 quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (open a fresh bottle)

¼ cup of Baking Soda 

1-2 teaspoons of Liquid Soap (Softsoap and Ivory are recommended)

Note: for large dogs, the recipe can be doubled or you can add one quart of lukewarm water to ensure complete body coverage.

Directions:

  1. Apply the solution to the entire coat and work it deeply into the fur.
  2. Leave on for at least 5 minutes or until the odor is gone.
  3.  Rinse your pet thoroughly with lukewarm water.
  4.  Smell your pet! If he still reeks of skunk, repeat steps 1-3!
  5.  Pour any remaining solution down the drain with running water
NEVER store the solution in a closed bottle as pressure can build up and cause the container to explode.

Note: The solution will sting if it gets into your dog’s eyes. If your dog’s face is heavily soiled, use a toothbrush soaked in solution to clean the hair around the eyes. 

By: Seri Dukart - Groomer
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Pro Tip!

1/26/2016

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Getting The Haircut You Want At The Groomer

1/15/2016

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As a dog groomer, one of the most frustrating parts of my job is communicating with the client what kind of haircut they want.  Too often, the client cannot verbalize what they want or have unrealistic expectations of me, and end up being upset when they don’t get what they envisioned. Below are some tips to help you get the haircut you want when you take your pet to the groomer.


Do your research and be able to communicate your expectations.


“Short” is not a length. My idea of short and your idea of short may be a couple of inches apart.  Telling your groomer to take your dog short without using actual numbers is like going into the paint store and telling them you want to paint your house pink. Baby pink? Fushia pink? Petal pink? Carnation pink? How about Rose pink, or Blush pink? Perhaps a lovely Neon Pink?


1/2” is a length. Short is an adjective that leaves much to the imagination.  If you are unsure of what length you want, ask your groomer to do a couple of test strips on your dog starting with the blade closest to your dogs' current coat length until you are satisfied with the length. I often have people come in, spread their fingers 2 inches apart, and ask me to leave their dog, who has no more than ¾” of hair on its body, that long.  Consider if what you are asking for is even possible or logical for your dog.


If you are unable to communicate what you want, the result of the groom is not going to make you happy. Be prepared to describe how you want the ears, tail, face, feet and body to look.  There are literally hundreds of ways we can groom a Shih Tzu, so don’t ask the groomer to “make her look like a Shih Tzu”. With so many options, it is up to you to tell us what you want. We are here to show you examples and give you some different options, but in the end, it’s the words you choose that will determine how your dog looks. Take the time to research, ask questions, and take notes to give your groomer for next time on what you did and didn’t like.  It can take a few grooms before you get exactly what you are looking for! 


People often bring in photos to show what they want, which is great…within reason.  Every dog, even those of the same breed, has different hair types. What looks good on one yorkie may not look good on your yorkie because of difference in the texture of the hair, the shape of your dogs body, the condition the coat is in when you bring the dog in and even genetics.  Bringing in a photo of a random dog from a calendar and expecting your own dog to look like that is not reasonable unless you take exceptional at home care of your dogs’ coat, which is not logical for most pet owners. Show grooming and pet grooming are very different things, and the care and time that goes into keeping show dog coats looking like that amounts to hours every DAY and professional expertise of the owner.


If you have gotten a haircut you really liked for your dog, make a point of taking clear, full body photos of him or her sitting still to show any future groomers exactly what you do like.  Ask the groomer to write down what blades and styles they used, so you can ask for that same thing next time.  Don’t expect your groomer to remember what was done to your dog 6 months ago…we see a LOT of dogs of the same breed every week. It is your responsibility as an owner to know what you want and be able to articulate it to your groomer.  If your spouse or child drops your dog off, be sure they have clear, written instructions to give the groomer. 




Take care of your dog’s coat, or be prepared to get a haircut you are not thrilled with.


Groomers are unfortunately, not miracle workers.  You can’t not brush your own hair for 6 months and expect your hairdresser to make you look like a celebrity. Don’t expect anything less from your dog groomer.  Most hair breeds need to be groomed professionally every 6-8 weeks, PLUS be kept brushed out completely in between grooms by their owners.  If you want a longer clip on your dog, you need to keep a strict grooming schedule, or be prepared to have your dog clipped shorter than you would like.  Combing out matts on a dog is painful for them and time consuming for the groomer.  Some groomers refuse to cause pain to the dogs for the sake of “cute”.  If dematting does happen, it WILL cost you more money. Be prepared.  


If you are unsure what methods and tools to use to keep your pet’s coat in good condition, just ask! Your groomer will be more than happy to show you how and advise you on what tools to purchase for your dogs coat type. Schedule your next appointment when you leave the previous one…that way you have a schedule that will keep your dog comfortable and looking nice, and you won’t be caught off guard by busy seasons or holidays and end up having to wait months to get another appointment once your dog is already overdue. 




Be respectful of your groomer’s time and effort.


It can take anywhere from 3-4 hours to groom a dog…more if they are ill behaved, in really bad shape, or decide to mess in the kennel and need to be rebathed.  Grooming takes time, and is not something that can or should be rushed. Every groomer is a bit different in how they groom and manage their days. Some only work on one dog at a time and may get your dog done in less time. Some have multiple dogs in at the same time and rotate them, (start another while yours is drying, etc) which means your dog will be at the groomer for a longer period of time. 


Understand that this is not a predictable career.  One dog making a mess, one customer having an issue or arriving for their appointment late, or one ill behaved dog can set us back on the rest of our day.  Be patient. If you are anxious to pick up your dog and don’t give us the time we ask for, the haircut and the safety of your dog will suffer for it.  Don’t stop in early just to “check and see if he is done”…your dog will be excited to see you and will not sit still for the rest of the groom, making it impossible to finish safely.   Do not call to ask if the dog is done when you are given a specific time to pick up or told we will call you when the dog is done…we are busy grooming your dog, we don’t have time to answer the phone.  Your patience and understanding will make the whole process go much smoother. If you have a certain time you need to pick up at, clear that when you make the appointment and be sure it will work, not after you have dropped off.




Do's and Don'ts of a Responsible Dog Owner.​

DO bring your dog into a grooming shop (or any other public place!) on a properly fitted flat leash and collar. Flexi-leashes are for dog parks and potty times, not public places, as they offer no control.  


DO research your grooming shop before your appointment. Do they have a facebook page or website with information that could relate to you? Do they have signs posted about additional fees, hours, rules or payment methods? Check these things out ahead of time to avoid unexpected surprises. 


DON’T feed your dog the morning of its appointment unless there is a health reason to do so. This will only cause your dog to have to potty and it may mess in the cage at the groomer. Many groomer charge clean up fees due to having to rebath your dog and having to take time out to clean up a messy kennel or dryer. 


DO potty your dog before dropping them off.  


DON’T bring your dog into a groomer in a carrier – dogs do not take well to people they do not know well reaching into a confined space to pull them out. 


DO leave a number for you to be reached at in case of questions or problems. Be sure to inform your groomer if your contact information has changed.


DON’T pass your anxiety on to your dog.  Bring your dog in, hand it over to the groomer, and leave with a smile. Lingering, talking to your dog in high pitched tones, and forcing your groomer to pry your dog out of your arms is only going to make the rest of the appointment stressful and upsetting for your dog. YOU set the tone. If you are nervous, unsure or unhappy to leave your dog, your body language will show this and they will pick up on it. If your dog is nervous about being groomed or left, reassure it by acting completely normal and confident, and everything will be ok.


DO inform your groomer of any injuries, illnesses or behavior issues. We are trained to work with these issues, and it is safer for us and your dog to know about them ahead of time.


DO have realistic expectations. It is up to you as a pet owner to take care of your dogs coat, know how you want them groomed, train them to behave, and address any health issues with a vet.  


DO start your pet off young with haircuts, coat care and socialization. An unsocialized dog is a grooming nightmare, and puppies should have their first grooms as soon as their series of shots are complete, even if it is just a bath and nails to get them used to the process.


DO talk to your groomer if you are not happy with something! Getting angry or upset without bothering to understand why something was done the way it was done only creates a bad relationship between you and your groomer. We do want to make our clients happy, but sometimes we just can’t give you what you want. Find out why before you get upset. Develop a good, honest working relationship with your groomer through communication so your dog is able to develop a trusting, comfortable bond with the same groomer rather than going to a strange person every time they need a haircut. 

by Seri Dukart - Groomer
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How To Bathe Your Dog At Home

1/15/2016

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As a groomer, I have a lot of clients asking me if it's ok to bathe their dog at home between grooms. My answer is, of course! Sorta. If you read this article first and do it right, that is. Others do bathe their dog between grooms without a second thought, and end up making my job as a groomer much more difficult because they are not doing it properly.  There IS a proper way to bathe a dog, and forgoing any of the tips below can cause skin and coat issues with your pup that I may not be able to fix easily, and your dog and the haircut will suffer for it.  


Equipment Needed:  Tub. High Pressure Water Nozzle. Hot/Cold Water Faucet. Brush. Comb. Shampoo. Bottle to dilute shampoo in. Towels. Vodka. (This is for you. After the bath.)


Rub a Dub Tub...err Shower


The most important thing to have if you are going to bathe your dog at home, equipment wise, is a nozzle with good water pressure.  Some showers have take down shower heads, but they don't always have the best water pressure.  You can purchase attachments that hook up to your tub faucet, or hose attachments, however, be sure if you are using hose attachments that you are hooking up to a faucet that has both hot and cold water.  The water from an outdoor spigot is usually too cold. If it's not comfortable for you, it's not comfortable for your dog, and even on a very hot day being directly sprayed by a cold hose is not all that welcome. Always use cooler water, not warm to hot.  Dogs run at a higher body temperature than us humans, and cooler water will feel more comfortable.


One of the most common mistakes people make when bathing their dogs at home is filling a tub up with water and dropping the dog in.  All this does is mix dirt, dander, soap and hair around, leaving most of it on your dog when you remove them from the tub.  The old "tub o' water and a cup" method went out with the idea of communal bathing years ago for a reason: it doesn't get you clean, and it's pretty disgusting. 


Water should be running off your dog and down the drain as you bathe and rinse. Never bathe a dog in standing water, no matter what Grandma says. Or google.


Brush First! Ask Questions Later!


Have you ever gotten your hair wet without brushing it first?  When you do brush it out, it hurts. A lot. If you don't have enough hair to experience this, go grab a small child and try it. They will very vocally educate you and your shins. It only takes ONE time of getting the hair wet without brushing it out first and immediately after, before tangles form.  Your dogs' hair is the same way.  Hair breeds such as Lhasas, Shih Tzus, Maltese, etc must be brushed and combed out completely before they are bathed as well as after.  Getting the hair wet without removing the tangles and mats is pretty much the same as pouring a bottle of glue on your dog and rubbing it in.  Water and tangles equal instant mats, and mats are extremely uncomfortable to brush and comb out. 


Am I repeating myself? It's because I can't stress this enough.  As a groomer I hear "but I bathe her at home all the time!" every day when I explain to my clients their dogs are too matted to be kept in a longer groom. It's almost always BECAUSE of all the (improperly done) bathing at home that their dogs are matted. 


Run a wire bristle brush through your dogs entire coat (armpits, belly, back, legs, ears, face...ALL OF IT!) and then follow through with a fine tooth comb. If you can't get the comb through from surface to skin without resistance, your dogs coat is matted and needs attention BEFORE you bathe the dog.  Remember...water and tangles is the equivalent of glue.  Dumping glue on your dog is generally frowned upon.  So is bathing a dog that hasn't been properly brushed out. At least from a groomers standpoint, as we are the ones that have to fix that mess!


If you are worried about getting water in your dogs ears, gently stuff a few cotton balls in the ear to prevent water from getting in the ear canal. Be sure to take them out when done!  Ears can be cleaned using unscented baby wipes, just gently wipe out the outer areas of the ear. Never use Q-tips, if your dogs ears are excessively dirty, they need to see a vet for a cleaning. 


If you brush your dogs teeth, bath time is a good time to do this as well. May as well get all the un-fun stuff done in one shot so they can hate you for an hour or so and get over it.


The Dilution Factor


There are hundreds of choices for dog shampoo on the market, and just like human shampoo, some are better than others. Chain store brands are usually low end and you won't get the same results as if you use a higher end, salon purchased shampoo.  Never use shampoo intended for humans.  Your dog may be your baby and that is perfectly ok, but I highly doubt you would pick up a $2 bottle of dog flea and tick shampoo for your infant. The same goes for your fur baby.  Dogs hair and skin are different than humans, and require a different sort of shampoo. 


ALL shampoo needs to be diluted before using on your pet.  Salon brands will usually have the dilution ratio on the bottle. Sometimes this dilution ratio can be as big as 32 parts water to 1 part shampoo. If no dilution ratio is listed, try 4 parts water to 1 part shampoo. Diluted shampoo cuts through the coat easier, and is easier to rinse out. Using a half gallon milk jug to mix up the shampoo you need for the bath is a great, easy way to mix. Add the water first, then the shampoo and shake.  Shampoo does have a shelf life, so you don't want to store mixed shampoo for long or it will start to break down and separate. The resulting mixture will be a very watery solution that suds up well when applied to your wet pet, if the shampoo is of good quality. If you insist on using a cheaper shampoo, expect less impressive results, and less impressive lather.  


If your dog has been skunked, there are specialty shampoos designed to help with the smell.  Forget the tomato juice, unless you have a beer to go with it for yourself afterwards. There is a recipe for a homemade skunk solution at the bottom of this article using common household ingredients that works well.  


Flea and Tick shampoos shouldn't be used as a preventative as they can be harsh.  If your dog has fleas or ticks, make an appointment with your vet to take care of these pests properly and promptly.  Shampoos designed for fleas and ticks will not take care of the problem alone. 


Rinse, Rinse, Rinse! (and repeat, if necessary)


Rinsing is the most time consuming part of bathing a dog. Along with trying to convince your dog to stay in the tub.  There are suction cup tethers you can purchase that will help. Another nice trick is to feed your dog in the tub so they are used to being in it for a GOOD reason, or smearing peanut butter on the tub wall to keep them occupied. You can always try this with your toddler too, come to think of it.


You always want to start out by getting the entire dog wet first, then apply the diluted shampoo mixture. If you have a really dirty dog, do a quick shampoo and rinse first and then repeat with a more thorough shampoo to get all the dirt off first. Shampoo the face and ears last, and rinse these first, so your dog doesn't get soap in its eyes. Always rinse from the top down. If you rinse the legs and chest first and then the top areas, you will be pushing dirty water and dander down onto the areas you just got clean.  So start at the top and work your way down.  Areas between the eyes and privates may need a little more attention to get clean and it's ok to use a cloth to help wipe the "gunk" off.  Using rubber curry brushes (usually called Zoom Grooms) is a great way to lather up short coated breeds like Labs as it will help loosen the dead hair.  Longer coated hair breeds need to be lathered by hand to prevent their coat from getting snarled up after you just spent all that time combing it out before the bath (you DID, right? RIGHT??). Use your fingers to lather the shampoo into the coat down to the skin level.


Rinse until no more soap or lather is seen and the water runs clean...then rinse some more. Use your hands to work the water into the coat to help rinse below the surface. Soap and dander that is left behind turns into itchy skin issues and a dull, flat coat. A clean coat is a shiny coat.  If your water pressure is less than desirable, you will have to rinse twice as long to be sure the coat is clean.


Shake, Shake, Shake Senora...


Before taking a towel to your dog, squeeze all the excess water out of their coat, paying special attention to the ears and feet and tail, then encourage them to shake it off!  Yes, this is going to get water everywhere, but its the dogs natural instinct to shake all that water out of their coat, and doing so actually will make the drying process much easier for you.  So if they want to shake, let them. Shake with them.  Have some fun! I love to bathe dogs with the music on...it keeps me in a good mood, and the dogs pick up on that mood.


Towel drying can also cause matting in hair breeds, so never "scrub" towel a breed with a long coat.  Instead, use the towel to gently squeeze the water out of the dog, starting with their back and pat drying and squeezing the water down and out with the towel all over their body, legs, ears and tail.  Many dogs love to run and rub their bodies on the carpet or furniture after a bath and as cute as this is, please discourage it by keeping them contained until they are dry.  Rubbing a wet coat on carpet just takes us back to that whole "dump a bottle o' glue" theory again.


Human hair dryers are not meant to be used on dogs. The dryers we use in a professional grooming shop are not heated.  They are forced room temperature air. Heat will not only ruin your dogs coat, it can burn their skin and cause them to overheat quickly. If you do not have a hair dryer specifically designed for dogs, it is best to let them air dry. Human hair dryers with a "cool" setting are ok in a pinch, but the air force of these dryers is often not strong enough to be worth the time and agitation to your dog when they will likely air dry in the same amount of time. When the coat is dry, brush and comb out again if it's a hair dog, and you are done!  You can also brush and comb as you dry if you do have a suitable hair dryer to make a longer coat lay flat or a curly coat fluff up.


Smoochy, Smoochy


You are done! Your dog is clean! Give them a kiss and a treat. Not the vodka. That's for you. Tell them how wonderful they were, even if you are on the brink of murder because you are soaking wet from head to toe, your entire bathroom is covered in hair, you spilled the bottle of shampoo, and you have dog hair in your eyeballs.  Next time, pay the groomer to do it for you. That's what we are here for. Also, consider tipping us.  We appreciate it. It's how we purchase our vodka.


If your dog acts up during any part of this process, do not stop what you are doing.  Tantrums that convince you to stop the unwanted process of being brushed, bathed or dry is basically teaching your dog that you are a huge wuss and they can get what they want by having a fit. Some parents could use this advice too, come to think of it.  I know it's hard to see your dog unhappy, but it really IS best for them to learn to tolerate the process. It makes professional grooming much less stressful for them, and likely cheaper for you.  Many salons DO charge a fee for dogs that won't behave because it takes us more time and energy to groom a dog that should be able to stand fairly well for a procedure that it is going to have to tolerate for the rest of its life.  Puppies in particular can really carry on with fighting and crying...don't worry, you are not hurting anything but their feelings. They will get over it ;)  Your groomer on the other hand, may not.




Homemade Skunk Solution


Mix the following ingredients in a plastic bucket:

1 quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (open a fresh bottle)

¼ cup of Baking Soda 


1-2 teaspoons of Liquid Soap (Softsoap and Ivory are recommended)

Note: for large dogs, the recipe can be doubled or you can add one quart of lukewarm water to ensure complete body coverage.

Directions:


  1. Apply the solution to the entire coat and work it deeply into the fur.
  2. Leave on for at least 5 minutes or until the odor is gone.
  3.  Rinse your pet thoroughly with lukewarm water.
  4.  Smell your pet! If he still reeks of skunk, repeat steps 1-3!
  5.  Pour any remaining solution down the drain with running water.
NEVER store the solution in a closed bottle as pressure can build up and cause the container to explode.

Note: The solution will sting if it gets into your dog’s eyes. If your dog’s face is heavily soiled, use a toothbrush soaked in solution to clean the hair around the eyes. 

By Seri Dukart - Groomer
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